For some years, I have preferred to take my holidays around the Baltic (herewith classified as Eastern Europe, because it is north east of the British Isles and the Finns come from the Urals anyway). Larking about in the Nordic and Baltic countries always includes a visit to the local museum concerning the Second World War and the Resistance. These museums often give a snapshot of the the way these countries view themselves, their place in the world and their history.
The most disappointing museum that I ever came across was in Helsinki, Finland. Their military museum, near the Lutheran Cathedral, included an exhibition covering the Finnish contribution to the Second World War which finished at the end of the Winter War. The wartime alliance with Germany from 1941, which one could view as a necessary defence against Stalinism on the grounds that my enemy’s enemy is my friend was excised from their exhibition. This was the state of play in 2000 and I haven’t been back to the museum since, so they may have extended the scope since but the omission at that time was rather surprising. Sweden and Estonia did not appear to have any specialised museums on this subject. Sweden does not need one, due to its policy of neutrality, and Estonia had a room with inscribed pebbles and rusting armour that doubled as a centre for folklore. For me, Tallinn was more rewarding for curries and beautiful women than for museums. However, the City museum that I missed in Tallinn does cater for the history of the Estonian resistance against Nazi and Soviet oppression.
Denmark was objective and attempted to provide a social history of occupation rather than a celebration of resistance. It always astonished me, once I had gone to the museum, that Denmark held a unique democratic election under Nazi occupation in 1943. They smuggled their Jews to Sweden whilst attempting to maintain the norms of a liberal democratic state under military occupation. Denmark also had an active resistance movement and sited their museum in the gracious environs of the Churchillparken. I do not think they succeeded in protecting their country from Nazism but who are we to say that such an endeavour was not a moral response under these extreme circumstances.
The two countries that most impressed me were Latvia and Norway.
Latvia has faced its history without any qualms. There are museums on its military history and on the Gulag. Both are well worth visiting. For me, the devastation that was wreaked on Riga only became clear after visiting this museum with its exhibitions on how the city was fought over three times: first the Soviets, then the Nazis, then the Soviets again. More telling to me was the honesty with which the Latvians faced up to their own role in joining the SS and co-operating in the liquidation of the Jews. My family never faced anything like this because they were British and, therefore, this reflection is alien to me.
As for Norway, I have never seen Germans move around a museum so rapidly. If you wish to define a people that love freedom, look no further than Norway. The Resistance Museum starts by telling you how Britain is the last beacon of liberty in a barbarous continent. I was hooked. The Norwegian sacrifices during the Second World War are second to none. Their resistance, their merchant navy and their armed forces probably contributed more than the French. If any country should have been given a sector in Germany to occupy after 1945, it was Norway.
This is an anecdotal survey and I am sure there are errors and omissions. However, it provides a flavour of how countries exhibit their past and indicates that they are aware war and occupation have shaped their history. If you are ever in these countries, visit these museums.
just curious — how candid was the norwegian museum about the quislingite collaboration, the Viking division – waffen SS, and the postwar trials and executions of collaborators?
I’ve been a tourist in much of ex-communist Europe, and the Occupation Museum in Riga is by far the most damning (and credible) indictment of the Soviet Union that I have seen anywhere.
Estonia has just opened a new occupation museum in Tallinn a couple months ago. It’s a beautiful building, and will be real nice when they have a larger collection.
The videotapes shown on TV monitors in different parts of the museum, in Estonian, Russian, English and German, are a good roundup of the Soviet terror.
You are correct; right now, Riga’s occupation museum is the one to see.
I am bit surprised by the lack of decent historical monument or museum regarding the Winter War… the conflict is widely regarded as one of the most amazing David vs Goliath struggles alongside the Six Day War and Yom Kippur War. The odds against Finland were just staggering. And they pulled it off, their “defeat” was nominal in the end (losing bunch of non inhabited forest plus one major city) versus 60 years of living under the Communist yoke.
And they took it all back in 1941 (albeit temporarily).
If you ever make it to the New Orleans in the US, they have a great military museum called the D-Day Museum that was spearheaded by the late historian Stephen Ambrose. Its web site address is (Link). I think you would enjoy it.
Philip, thank you for your posting and your kind words about the Norwegians (since I’m half Norwegian). Still, it’s hard to gloss over that Quisling business.
In any regard, if you’re looking for a nation of World War II heroes, check out Poland. A recent book, “A Question of Honor” by Lynne Olson and Stanley Cloud (Alfred A. Knopf is the US publisher), tells not only about the Polish airmen who bolstered the RAF during the Battle of Britain but also the truly tragic story of Poland itself, which was sandwiched between two enemies and was hated by both. It’s a deeply moving tale that exposes the lies spread by the Nazis and Soviets during the war and for decades afterward.
Philip,
Thank you for this virtual (and educational) journey. A pity that the Danish museum took a social history stance. I suppose someone considers this to be the real story of resistance, in contrast to the derring-do stuff. But it doesn’t stir the soul – or, at least, not mine.
For me the story of the 21st March 1945 attack on the Gestapo HQ at the Shell House in the centre of Copenhagen by mosquitoes of 21 Squadron captures the bravery and generosity of spirit of the Danish people in wartime. I shan’t recount the whole episode here. But it was done at a desperate insistence of a Danish resistance facing destruction by Copenhagen Gestapo. Under torture captured resistance fighters were slowly giving up information about their 20,000 free comrades. But they managed to get out the message to their brothers in arms pleading for a raid to destroy the evidence the Germans had gained.
Fearing attack from the air Dr Karl Hoffman, the Gestapo chief, moved his prisoners into the attic of the building and made sure the fact was known all over Copenhagen. But the prisoners only smuggled out another message saying, “We would rather be killed by RAF bombs than a German firing squad.”
In England, meanwhile, the RAF planned an incredible dangerous roof-top raid, their priority being pinpoint precision. But weather and other factors forced delay of several weeks. Finally, a third message was despatched. “Military leaders arrested,” it said, “and plans in German hands. Situation never before so desperate. Remaining leaders known by Hun. We are regrouping but need help. Bombing of S.D.Copenhagen will give us breathing space. If any importance is attached at all to Danish Resistance you must help us irrespective of costs. We will never forget RAF.”
The raid was mounted at the first opportunity. It was both a brilliant success and a tragedy. The Shell House and the Gestapo’s intelligence archive was utterly destroyed, with perhaps 100 Gestapo and Danish collaborators killed. But the Mosquito of 21 Squadron’s CO, Peter Kleboe, was brought down in a residential district and in the smoke and confusion some of the later aircraft released on his “mark”. Eighty-six children and seventeen staff of the Jean d’Arc School were killed under the bombs.
After the war some of the aircrew visited Copenhagen to express their regret. They were deeply touched by the “lack of bitterness and understanding and sympathy” they received from the Danes.
This is the history that should be preserved for posterity to contemplate and pass on in turn.
“if you wish to define a people that love freedom, look no further than Norway”
As evidenced by the fact that they want nothing to do with the EU.
Would that Britain were still the last beacon of liberty etc etc etc.
btw Guessedworker, thank you for that moving story from Denmark which I had not heard before.
On the other hand, Norway has very high taxes. And at one point it had a very powerful temperence movement – you still have to buy wine and spirits from government run Vinmonopolet shops.
The resistance museum at Riga was/is great. I found it interesting that they talk about the occupation by the Soviet Union in the same way they talk about the occupation by the Nazis. One interesting thing about that museum, at least when I visited, is that there is a statute/sculpture in front of the museum (not visible in the link provided) honoring the Lettish rifles. These were the personal sharpshooters and body guards for the high ranking Bolsheviks during the revolution and civil war.
In St. Petersburg there is a good museum about the siege, it is very Soviet, but with some very interesting material. I got the feeling that it was not frequented very often, it was kind of out of the way, and the attendant turned on/off the lights as my friend went from one room/exhibit to the next.
Bart
Peter Kleboe was the only member of the family killed in action in the second world war, the other six brothers came through unscathed. My father , Geoffrey ,served in the navy and was mentioned in despatches but I have not been able to find out what he actually did. He
reached the rank of Lt.Cdr.
My uncle Raymond served in the RAF Regiment and his brother David was an RAF officer and remained in the service after the war.
I do not know if Sydney ,John,or George were in the forces or not, maybe someone will be able to add to this.
Andrew Kleboe.